I didn't actually need to replace my front axles, but since Currie apparently lost the records for my axle I had to remove both of them and measure them so I could order trail spares.It also gave me an opportunity to put some synthetic grease on the caliper/pad components to quiet a squeal the brakes had developed.

The first thing is to get the axle housing on jack stands and remove the wheels.

 With the wheel off the first thing you can see is the Centramatic continuous wheel balancer.

Once that's pulled off you can see the brake rotor and caliper.

 After removing the two mounting bolts the calipers can be removed. Tap them with a soft hammer if they need persuasion.

Now is a better time than most to clean the exposed brake parts.

 Remove the allen bolts holding the cap for locking hub mechanism.

Next remove the external snap ring from the outer axle shaft.

 There is another internal snap ring that fits into the shell of the wheel hub.

Once it's removed use one of the allen bolts to pull the locking mechanism from the wheel hub shell.

 The hub nut/lock ring that holds the hub/rotor assembly to the spindle is now visible.

Before you can use your handy hub nut socket loosen the lock ring set screws. Now remove the lock ring, the keyed washer behind it, and finally the hub nut.

 Here are the tools used and parts removed to this point.

You can now pull off the hub/rotor assembly, being careful not to drop the outer wheel bearing.

Remove the outer wheel bearing and pack it with fresh grease.

 Since the inner wheel bearing and it's seal were in good shape I just slathered on a little extra fresh grease. Replacing the seal and packing the bearing is probably preferred...

Next remove the 6 lock nuts holding the brake shield/caliper mount to the spindle and the spindle to the steering knuckle.

Pull off the shield...

 ...and pull off the spindle. It might take some rubber mallet persuasion. Check the outer surfaces of the spindle and the inner bearing for wear. Slap a little fresh grease on the bearing while you're there.

Once the spindle is removed the axle shaft can be pulled from the axle housing.

If this were a real axle replacement or repair the new u-joint could be installed and the repaired, or replacement, axle could be [re]installed. Basically follow these steps in reverse. The spindle lock nuts take 35 ft/lbs, the hub nut is tightened until slight resistance is felt in the bearing when the hub is turned, then backed off ~1/8 turn.